‘Bedrock of Australia Street’: Why this Newtown spot remains a firm favourite

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Ever tried a sandwich that sparked a war? Meet the French dip. Los Angeles restaurants Philippe the Original and Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet have been battling over the origin of this roast meat baguette for 118 years and counting. You might not be eating in a century-old LA institution any time soon, but you can try a version while drinking a tinned Martini sitting on a sun-dappled Newtown backstreet.

Here at Continental Delicatessen, they’re slathering a malty baguette in horseradish cream and filling it with juicy, pink slices of roast beef and sweet caramelised onion. Dip it in the accompanying cup of charcuterie jus, order a glass of chilled Dolcetto and cancel your afternoon plans.

For those of you that slept in that day, here’s a refresher on the place. When they opened back in 2015, owners Elvis Abrahanowicz, Sarah Doyle and Joe Valore were best known for their Surry Hills tapas bar Bodega (RIP), and Argentinian grillhouse Porteno.

Over the years, their little deli-bistro became a bedrock of Australia Street. So much so, they’ve recently opened a neighbouring strip of restaurants including fish-focused Mister Grotto, New York bar and grill-inspired Joe’s Tavern and Italian trattoria Osteria Mucca. The question is, how does the deli keep its voice among all that new sound?

There’s an unmistakable style downstairs. Something that straddles Barcelona taberna and American diner. Customers cram into the dinky space, sitting at the classic wood panel and marble bar for conservas and cocktails, with garlands of garlic hanging over their heads.

The fridge at the front is piled high with cheeses and cured meats ready to be eaten in, or taken home. They’re also famous for canning just about anything they can get their hands on, from cocktails (Mar-tinnies, Can-hattans, Cosmopoli-tins) to ice-cream (Neapoli-tin, naturally).

While chef-owner Elvis Abrahanowicz is the final boss across all the venues, the kitchen is run day-to-day by Cian Mulholland (ex-Momofuku Seiobo). There’s a sense of lightness and play in dishes such as patatas fritas – Torres potato chips layered with jamon, guindilla pickles and shavings of soft parmesan. And check out the creamy mushroom pâté with a port and lilly pilly jelly, served in a cute sardine tin, dotted with mushroom-shaped crackers.

The upstairs bistro feels like an entirely different restaurant, where candlelit tables, a soundtrack of African soul and a riot of botanical prints, stripes and portraits of fish greet you as you sit. On the mantle, large jars hold dried flowers, fruit skins and mushrooms, pickles and ferments.

The theme of upcycled charcuterie is leant on fairly heavily through the menu, but it feels more like a style decision than accidental repetition. A posh googie egg sees a charcuterie jam base topped with a just-warm yolk and a parmesan custard. Butter beans, slow-cooked ’til they’re pillowy squish pods, are doused in charcuterie XO. Then there’s the charcuterie jus with the aforementioned French dip.

There’s no lack of opportunity to go hard on juicy meats (roast pork neck with a blood orange glaze is so sweet, sticky and yielding that it reminds me of char siu), but consider the fillet of steamed snapper covered in scales of thinly sliced carrot, or the raw kingfish sandwiched between slices of lightly grilled zucchini and squash, splashed with a gently acidic wattle blossom dressing and a touch of mango and citrus skin oil. This is tight cooking.

The Good Food Guide’s current Chef of the Year, Lauren Eldridge, is behind the pastry at all the Australia Street venues. A slippery panna cotta is adorned with crystallised violets and a thin layer of plum blossom and fermented rhubarb jelly: pretty and floral, with just a hint of underlying funk. A slice of chocolate mousse cake is dense in flavour and cloudlike in texture. It’s such a strong offering on its own, the accompanying bergamot and white chocolate ganache kinda feels like gilding the lily.

A word on service, both upstairs and down. It’s some of the most charming, personal and fun I’ve experienced in some time. There’s real heart here between the sweet, enthusiastic newbies and seasoned pros who juggle everything from wine recommendations to magic tricks. When was the last time you heard the words “pick a card, any card” while enjoying your chocolate cake and a Japanese mint amaro? And yes, before you ask, it was my card.

No danger of Continental losing its voice. If anything, it’s more powerful than ever.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.