In the early noughts, chef Matt McConnell and front-of-house pro Jo Gamvros went on tasty Euro odysseys, feeling their way towards their own restaurant. The Iberian peninsula, particularly Portugal, spoke to them most seductively, not just for the spice, fish, olive oil and wine, but also because its hospitality is a bit rogue, unpolished and daring. So too at this spirited city bolthole.

There’s much to look at here, whether you’re cosied up on a leather banquette under a lifetime of collected bric-a-brac or twitching at the bar waiting for a first date. Chickpeas with greens are a version of a spice-marinated dish McConnell and Gamvros ate in a dodgy bar in Seville. Salt-cured kingfish “pancetta” with frisky mojo rojo and skewers threaded with morcilla and pork tongue headline the tapas.

Prawn rice is pure Portuguese comfort, textured but soupy, oceanic yet still bright. Maybe more impressive than its big anniversary is the energy here: Bar Lourinha has a leg in the past and eyes on the future: the next season, the next vintage, and ever-fresh batches of Melbourne memories.

Best for: Intimate and vibey, it’s perfect for date night or solo dining.

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