“At last! Japanese pizza!” It’s not the first thing you’ll hear down the Italian stronghold of Lygon Street. Nobody asked for pizza topped with potato chips. We have it now, though – and on the balance of evidence, we’re mad for it.

These aren’t old-school Australian-Italian pies, nor slavishly authentic Neapolitan pizze. Culinary director Karen Martini and head pizzaiolo Sangsub Ha use a method known as “Tokyo stretch”: long-fermented dough pinched and pulled into a light and airy base brought to life in a rotating wood-fired oven. The cacio e pepe, a pizza bianca of mozzarella, Oaxaca and pecorino cheeses, is festooned with pepper and potato crisps for a taste and texture sensation.

The Tokyo bianco is topped with bechamel and a thin layer of tuna prepared crudo-style, plus a flurry of shiso and nori. Cocktails skew sweet, but some stellar wines, including a Radikon pinot grigio from northern Italy, plus a cleanskin draught worth its malt and then some, means there’s enough on pour to temper all the salt. Garfield is a very good time, with chips on top.

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