Talk about a hard act to follow. Gerald’s Bar 1.0 is officially done, but the universe has rebalanced quickly. You could call it a pared-back version of its older sibling Carnation Canteen: the menu shorter and more direct, but written with the same quality of ingredients, seasonings, saucing and composition that won its big sis a fervent fanbase.

Fritto misto uses the best seafood available that day, frying it to light, delicious crispiness. Vitello tonnato is simply a paragon of the form, classic in every way, the veal tender, the sauce tangy and exacting. You’d order the steak frites simply for the diane sauce; imagine the best gravy spiked by acid and mustard and pure deliciousness.

Service is fantastic in that ineffable, laid-back way that mimics a carefree spirit but is actually underpinned by true professionalism. There’s a ripper wine list, too, and the staff will gladly guide you through it while they gauge exactly what kind of night you want to have. Gerald’s has moved on, but this is one worthy successor.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.