‘The place’ for Chinese barbecued meats in South Sydney

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Is there a Sydney suburb offering more serious poultry in such a short stretch than Hurstville? Golden Sands and Taste of Shunde already do a fine line in goose, Chao BBQ has offered Nanjing salted duck in its line-up since 1995, and then there’s Golden Sun BBQ, which draws a steady queue from doors open: “Everyone in the Cantonese community knows that that’s where you go to get your barbecue meats,” says Chan.

All the staples are here – glistening char siu, plump soy chickens, handsome roast ducks – but equally appealing is the range of offal, as well as fat sausage links cleaved into coins on the wood block.

It’s the pei pa duck that’s a bit special, butterflied so it resembles the pear-shaped stringed instrument that gives it its name, then roasted until crisp and lacquered.

Pro tip: tubs of ginger-shallot sauce are only $1, so load up.