Yum cha somehow feels distinctly Big City, but sleepy Bangalow and breezy Byron have their own spin, served out of the steamboxes at the front of Red Ginger. They may not be made on site, but the siu mai, snowpea dumplings and pork buns are sweet and plump and sure hit the spot.

Still, they’re a support act for the main event: the tea, sourced from China, Japan, Taiwan and India as well as our own shores. Look for coveted Dragon Well tea on the shelves, among cups, pots and matcha whisks. Filling the pantry for the holiday? Red Ginger is also ground zero for Asian staples, with a fully stocked grocer ripe for the picking.

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