Chef Rosheen Kaul’s new Fitzroy pop-up is one of the hottest bookings you can get right now

Star chef and Good Food recipe columnist Rosheen Kaul is opening a new restaurant with her pal, cocktail whisperer Joe Jones – for a limited time only.

On May 9, Little Rose will take over the former Alta Trattoria in Fitzroy for a two-month residency. This will be Kaul’s longest stint in one kitchen since departing Etta (a Good Food Guide Critics’ Pick) in 2024. Since then, she’s been a pop-up powerhouse, most prominently running her own Bistro Marigold, a fancy French Chinese bistro, at Armadale venue Zia Rina’s Cucina last spring.

“Think of Marigold as the refined older sibling – restrained, elegant and deeply rooted in technique and tradition,” Kaul says. “Little Rose is looser and more playful, where French bistro sensibility meets a more relaxed, expressive energy.”

There will be some menu crossover, though. “I’m thrilled to be bringing back the pommes puree from Marigold: silky mash drowned in Suzhou-style crab-roe sauce with the tiniest hint of crab-shell vinegar to brighten,” Kaul says.

Also expect mushrooms au poivre to celebrate the autumn bounty in a classic peppercorn sauce; a handful of rotating sauté dishes including one of squid, ’nduja and garlic chive; and clams and periwinkles marinated in the oxidative white wine vin jaune, with a baguette for dipping.

After the Alta site’s short life as Cantina Moro, owners James Tait and Luke Drum have made it a pop-up incubator, hosting Pipis Kiosk’s northside venture and, at present, Sydney pasta diner Ragazzi.

‘Little Rose is looser and more playful, where French bistro sensibility meets a more relaxed, expressive energy.’

Rosheen Kaul

Joining Kaul for her May pop-up is Joe Jones, who co-founded the now-closed but influential CBD cocktail bar Romeo Lane. He’s created a gin martini with chrysanthemum vermouth, coconut water and fino sherry, and an impressive non-alcoholic offering, including a peppery highball with sparkling strawberry “wine”.

For now, Little Rose will run for two months. But, Kaul says, “if the demand is there, we just might extend”.

Bookings open April 21.

Little Rose opens on May 9 at 274 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, littlerosefitzroy.com

Five other pop-ups to visit this autumn

Pebble, West Melbourne – until May 3

Cameron Tay-Yap, former head chef at the three-hatted Amaru and a past Good Food Guide Young Chef of the Year, is continuing his creativity at a soon-to-end pop-up that cleverly fuses South-East Asian flavours. Fancy a mushroom-rendang hand pie?

225-229 Victoria Street, West Melbourne, pebbledining.com

Roma Snack Bar, CBD – until mid-May

For a sneak peek of the hotly anticipated new Italian restaurant Roma, from Con Christopoulos and Matt Wilkinson’s (ex-Pope Joan), before it opens, hit a pop-up snack bar in the space for coffee, breakfast or gelato.

120 Collins Street, Melbourne, instagram.com/roma.melbourne

Ragazzi, Fitzroy – until May 3

Whether you already love the Sydney spot or it’s still on your to-try list, this residency delivers with menu mainstays (aka pasta galore) and some Melbourne-exclusive dishes including cavatelli pasta with clams and pork-fennel sausage.

274 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, ragazziwinepasta.com/ragazzi-residenza

Basque Txoko, South Yarra – until July

What was a summer residency at Nobody’s Baby bar will now run until winter. Warm up with the food of Spain’s Basque Country – from extra-loaded gildas to charcoal-fired steaks and cheesecake – cooked by Michelin-recognised chef Aitor Jeronimo Orive.

19-21 Toorak Road, South Yarra, nobodysbaby.com.au

Laam Thai, Geelong West – May 17 and 18

In Geelong and surrounds, Laam’s supper club series celebrates Thailand’s vastly different regional cuisines. The next instalment, at local diner Baah Lah!, is dedicated to central Thai food that goes beyond Bangkok.

1/100 Pakington Street, Geelong West, instagram.com/laam.thai