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Central

An ode to the frenetic heart of Hong Kong.

Matt Shea

Drunken chicken with aged shaoxing rice wine, red date and golden sesame.
1 / 6Drunken chicken with aged shaoxing rice wine, red date and golden sesame.Supplied
Central will initially open for dinner service, with lunches to follow in the coming weeks.
2 / 6Central will initially open for dinner service, with lunches to follow in the coming weeks.Markus Ravik
Scallop and prawn dumplings with smoked salmon roe.
3 / 6Scallop and prawn dumplings with smoked salmon roe.Supplied
Classic roasted duck with lilly pilly plum sauce.
4 / 6Classic roasted duck with lilly pilly plum sauce.Supplied
“You’re maybe not getting the volume you’d get out of a rice cooker, but you’re getting the best out of the grain,” Lam says about cooking rice in a clay pot.
5 / 6“You’re maybe not getting the volume you’d get out of a rice cooker, but you’re getting the best out of the grain,” Lam says about cooking rice in a clay pot.Markus Ravik
Central Javanese duck white curry with egg, jackfruit and lemongrass.
6 / 6Central Javanese duck white curry with egg, jackfruit and lemongrass.Morgan Roberts

Central

Chinese$$

From the team behind Rick Shores and Southside comes Central, named after the frenetic heart of Hong Kong. Much of the venue is informed by chef Benny Lam’s experiences of living and working in city as a chef and a designer.

It’s located right in the guts of the CBD beneath 340 Queen Street – once home to the historic Piccadilly Arcade and Primitif Cafe, a favoured ’50s hangout for Brisbane beatniks.

Central bills itself as a dumpling bar first and foremost, so dim sum is at the heart of the menu, which features scallop and prawn dumplings with smoked salmon roe, king crab spring rolls, wild mushroom and water chestnut dumplings, and classic prawn har gow. But there’s also cold starters, a selection of share plates, and items cooked on the barbecue.

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Accompanying the food is a 250(ish)-bottle wine list that mixes Old and New World drops and includes four wines from China. About 30 are available by the glass, half glass and half bottle via Coravin.

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Matt SheaMatt Shea is Food and Culture Editor at Brisbane Times. He is a former editor and editor-at-large at Broadsheet Brisbane, and has written for Escape, Qantas Magazine, the Guardian, Jetstar Magazine and SilverKris, among many others.

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