By lunchtime, John Street is usually bustling. Skewer restaurants and bubble-tea shops draw young crowds, while grandmas set up stalls to sell lemongrass and fresh herbs. Cross the road, and Huong Xua beckons.

Apart from elegant northern-style pho tai lan, featuring flank or stir-fried rare beef, you’ll find com tam – Vietnam’s celebrated broken rice dish – while specials taped to the wall might include nom tai heo, a salad of pig’s ear that’s all about the crunch.

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