Every country town has its own Chinese restaurant, but this yum cha and tea house in Rylstone is something else entirely. Occupying one end of the town’s heritage-listed Bridge View Inn, 29 Nine 99 is where owner and Chinese artist Na Lan serves more than 30 steamed dim sum and dumplings, from delicate golden mushroom and crab dumplings to beef and water chestnut dim sum and BBQ pork buns, paired with a list of 17 Chinese teas.

The experience draws inspiration from the elaborate dumpling banquets of Shaanxi province where Na Lan grew up. There’s no song-and-dance performance, as you might find in Xi’an; instead, the walls are lined with Na Lan’s own artworks, alongside those of her artist husband, Reg Buckland.

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