When Eightysix opened in Braddon in 2013, it was a symbol of a new movement in Canberra dining. The kitchen was open, the volume was high, the plates were made to pass around.

Almost 15 years later, it may no longer be the next big thing, but the buzz has never abated. Put it down to dishes that are eminently shareable, from habanero beef tartare plated with prawn crackers, to the black buttermilk chicken, hit hard under the grill to finish and plated with creamy coleslaw dressed with buttermilk.

The closure of their Woden expansion hasn’t dampened the tone at the original, with tables still spilling out onto Lonsdale Street. The drinks help, too, treading a line between old and new, near and far, with perfect balance.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.