Britain’s most beautiful train station is an impressive survivor

The station

St Pancras International, London, UK

The journey

London to Amsterdam, Netherlands, aboard a Eurostar train, a journey of four hours.

The departure

St Pancras International is arguably London’s most beautiful rail terminus. Built in a grand Gothic style, it opened in 1868 to serve destinations to the north of the city. After World War II, the station was threatened with demolition, but thankfully saved by a spirited campaign led by poet laureate Sir John Betjeman (spot the statue of him on the upper level). In the 1990s, St Pancras was selected as the eventual terminus of the high-speed line through the Channel Tunnel, and reopened as St Pancras International in 2007. The station’s platforms are arranged over two levels, accessed via the main concourse at ground level, with international services using platforms 5 to 10.

Safety + security

St Pancras International is generally safe, but there have been recent reports of luggage theft and phone-snatching in the vicinity – so stay alert and keep a watchful eye on your belongings. If needed, there’s a left luggage facility run by Excess Baggage Company on the main concourse.

Food + drink

There are dozens of food options at and near St Pancras International. The usual British chains are in evidence (Greggs sausage roll, anyone?); at the classy end of the scale, the St Pancras Bar & Brasserie is the place to enjoy a glass of champagne beneath the station’s spectacular roof. Elsewhere in the station, the Betjeman Arms pub is a great spot for an ale and fish and chips, while Aux Merveilleux de Fred can load you up with French pastries. Note that there are plenty more eateries, bars and cafes in the redeveloped area around St Pancras and neighbouring King’s Cross station; a fine example is Caravan, an all-day cafe-style restaurant just across Regent’s Canal.

Retail therapy

The station is packed with shops, from those selling practical travel items to full-on boutiques. Highlights include outlets of Fortnum & Mason for posh food treats; Hamleys for toys, including travel games; Curiocity’s fancy stationery; and Hatchards books. Fashion retailers include Jigsaw for clothing and Allsaints for leather items.

Passing time

St Pancras International is a good base for sightseeing if you have time to kill before your train. Next door is the British Library, which stages literature-based exhibitions, including shows suitable for kids (bl.uk). A short walk east beyond King’s Cross station is the London Canal Museum (canalmuseum.org.uk); located within a former ice house, it tells the story of London’s waterways. Because St Pancras lies at the nexus of several London Underground lines, it’s also easy to zip to other parts of the city. For example, a six-minute ride on the Piccadilly Line will take you to Covent Garden and the excellent London Transport Museum (ltmuseum.co.uk).

Boarding

For international trains, passengers enter a secure area by scanning their ticket, then undergoing baggage scans and passport control formalities. Beyond this point is the inevitably crowded departure lounge, which includes the Eurostar Premier Lounge if you’re travelling in that class. There’s a buzz of anticipation in the air as I wait with my fellow Amsterdam-bound passengers. Eventually, the previous service departs for Paris, and we’re summoned to platform 5, which is reached via escalator or lift. There awaits our blue-and-silver international train. Exciting!

The verdict

St Pancras International is an impressive survivor from the Victorian age. It’s well set up with dining and shopping options, and is a suitably grand and romantic terminal from which to catch an international train.

Our rating out of five

★★★★

The writer travelled as a guest of Eurail (eurail.com), Maybourne (maybourne.com), and Small Luxury Hotels of the World (slh.com).