Asian mountain resort is the ultimate place to find tranquillity

The hotel

Legacy Yen Tu MGallery, Vietnam

Check-in

The expressway between Hanoi and Ha Long Bay whisks travellers to its famous emerald waters in less than 2½ hours, but a slight diversion leads to a lesser-known World Heritage site. Known as the home of Vietnamese Truc Lam Zen Buddhism, Yen Tu Mountain is where its founder, King Tran Nhan Tong, came to practise and teach Buddhism after abdicating the throne in 1293 to become a monk. The secluded temples and pagodas on the misty, forested slopes have for centuries been a site of pilgrimage. The Legacy Yen Tu MGallery, designed by Bangkok-based architect Bill Bensley, provides a luxurious base to explore a destination rich in history, culture and nature.

The look

Integrating architectural features from the mountain-top temples, Bensley has echoed the austerity of a 13th-century monastery, while providing palatial hotel comforts. Liberal use of handmade bricks, rice husk walls and large-scale pottery made by local artisans all add to the impression of age and authenticity; while long, timber-beamed corridors frame the mountain, creating a Zen-like symmetry and metaphorical journey to enlightenment, all accompanied by the gentle tinkle of wind chimes.

The room

With a palette of earthy hues, dark timbers and natural fibres, the aesthetic in Legacy Yen Tu’s Deluxe King Rooms is grand and masculine. Bathroom walls are lined with beaten bronze, while lighting above marble amenities creates a soft metallic glow. Beneath a soaring, cathedral-like ceiling, a plump king-sized bed – backed by a headboard crafted from stuffed rice sacks – is crowned by a shelf lined with oversized pottery jars, used for storing valuables during ancient times. Three floor-to-ceiling timber doors open onto a balcony with views of either the swimming pool or a large grassy common where ponies graze. Notably, there are no televisions in guestrooms, with meditation of a more cerebral nature encouraged.

Food + drink

With subdued tones dominating the resort, the hot pink drapes, stuffed tigers and feminine frippery of Thien Quan Lounge is a delightful surprise. Designed around a tall tale of a queen protecting her beloved from a wild tiger, the cocktail bar also hosts an elegant high tea and tea-tasting experience. Meanwhile, Tho Quang Restaurant, featuring four dining areas decorated with handcrafted ceramic tiles and a whimsical mural of a parade of talented rats, offers traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a focus on vegetarian offerings and locally sourced produce.

Out + about

Yen Tu Mountain is a major spiritual destination for Vietnamese Buddhists. A cable car ferries pilgrims unable, or unwilling, to tackle the more than 6000 slippery steps to the peak. Several temples can be accessed from the mid-station of the cableway, before taking the second leg to the ancient Dong Temple, where King Tran Nhan Tong is said to have achieved enlightenment.

The verdict

This tranquil hotel captures the essence of Zen Buddhism, inviting guests to slow down, engage with the surrounding landscape, and reflect on their own personal spiritual journey.

Essentials

Rooms at Legacy Yen Tu MGallery cost from VND3,500,000 ($200). A Deluxe King Room costs from VND4,500,000. See all.accor.com

BestPrice Travel’s six-day One Journey – Two Heritages tour, including two nights at Legacy Yen Tu MGallery, costs from $US1349 ($1800) a person. See bestpricetravel.com

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

Highlight

After seeking enlightenment on Yen Tu Mountain, a steam, salt room and hydrotherapy session followed by a foot massage at the hotel spa is the perfect wind-down.

Lowlight

While the huge wooden doors successfully block all ambient light, a momentary power outage creates a darkness like no other, testified by the screams of terrified children in the room next door.

Julie Miller travelled as a guest of BestPrice Travel.