Port guide: Bora Bora, French Polynesia

Sometimes the exaggerated claims of tourist boards are true. Yes, this really is the Pacific’s most outrageously beautiful island.

Who goes there

In 2022 the French Polynesian government limited Bora Bora to 1200 cruise passengers a day, effectively banning large ships. Many small-ship companies such as Oceania, Ponant and Windstar have however recently increased capacity in the region, and Silversea is operating its first full season there this year. Azamara, Norwegian Cruise Line, Regent Seven Seas and Seabourn are among other visitors. Paul Gauguin Cruises (now owned by Ponant) and mixed freight-passenger operator Aranui Cruises are the local specialists.

Sail on in

You ought to be arrested if you can’t be bothered to hit the deck for the arrival. Bora Bora’s dramatic volcanic peak looms ahead, then you skim past low-lying islands and atolls and enter a lagoon of electric-blue water that, as you sail away later, may well be pink and orange. Don’t just stare ahead though: look out for local lads in outriggers who like to use the ship’s wake for paddling practice.

Berth rites

There’s no cruise terminal or even dock, with ships anchoring in the lagoon off Vaitape on the island’s western side. Tenders take you ashore to a very modest quay where you’ll be met by a huddle of eager locals offering tours. The town is barely that, with a few shops and a couple of churches. On an island this stunning, there’s no need to linger.

Going ashore

This sudden eruption in the middle of the Pacific Ocean is a combination of emerald-green peaks, squeaky white-sand beaches and a lagoon studded with small sand islands and ringed by luxury resorts with overwater bungalows. There are no sights as such, but the scenery is spellbinding. Matira has the best beach, Povai Bay the most splendid views. You’ll also come across a few villages, old temples and, at Faanui, remnants of a WWII naval base.

Don’t miss

You absolutely must take a boat trip out onto the shallow, calm and utterly dazzling lagoon whose vivid blues are so intense you feel they must be Photoshopped. Even novice snorkellers will be able to appreciate coral gardens and shoals of brash fish, and get up-close encounters with black-tipped reef sharks and manta rays. A friendly ukulele-playing boat crew will serenade you with Polynesian songs.

Get active

The lagoon tempts with jet ski tours, kayaking, paddleboarding, parasailing and swimming. Bora Bora has numerous scuba diving spots such as Anau, Motu Toopua and Motu Tapu. You have scenic land options too: hire a bike and pedal the 32-kilometre coastal road that circumnavigates the island, or hike into the Valley of the Kings or Point Fitiuu. The ambitious can do a difficult six-hour return trek up Mount Otemanu, but you’ll need a guide.

Best bites

Opportunities for eating are limited unless you visit a resort hotel. Nevertheless, if you’re staying over in French Polynesia before or after your cruise then the top dish is poisson cru, or raw tuna marinated in lime juice and coconut milk. Barbecued chicken fafa served with sweet potato is another classic. For dessert, try po’e (a type of banana pudding served chilled with coconut cream) and firi firi, the local doughnut.

Further afield

Bora Bora isn’t enormous, and no excursion will take you beyond it. Unless you’re on a trans-Pacific cruise, your ship will likely move on to other French Polynesian islands such as Raiatea, Moorea or Huahine the next day. Some itineraries also take in more distant atolls in the Tuamotus such as Fakarava, noted for its coral, tropical fish and some of the world’s best shark dives.