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What made Shewry decide to pull the pin out of the grenade?

Food journalists and critics swooned over Attica. Then their golden boy turned on them

The chef and the critic share a tighter bond than either would like to admit. When Ben Shewry took a kitchen knife to the food media industry, it landed like a nuclear bomb.

  • Liam Mannix

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An Attica dessert, whipped emu egg with quandong.
Good Food hatGood Food hat17/20

Attica

A world-class restaurant entering its third decade.

Chef-restaurateur Ben Shewry at Attica in 2024.
Good Food hatGood Food hat17/20

Ben Shewry no longer consents to Attica being reviewed. Here’s why we did it anyway

Trailblazing Attica is still a world-class restaurant, and too important for us to ignore. But critic Besha Rodell finds the whole experience a little odd.

  • Besha Rodell
Ben Shewry at Attica.

We know Ben Shewry doesn’t like the Good Food Guide. And we don’t care

Ben Shewry wants his restaurant Attica dropped from the Guide. This is why it won’t be.

  • Besha Rodell
Ben Shewry at Attica

Top chef Ben Shewry reckons the pasta at this underrated CBD restaurant is better than Bologna’s

The Attica restaurateur and chef shares his Melbourne and Sydney food and drink favourites – plus the Malaysian food city he almost wishes he could keep secret.

  • Jane Rocca
Introduce visitors to the American Doughnut Kitchen, then explain it’s not actually American.

I’m coming to Melbourne for the week. Where should I eat? The critic’s top picks for visitors

These are the restaurants, pubs and bars that reveal our city’s essence, and who we are as Melburnians, says Besha Rodell.

  • Besha Rodell
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The degustation begins with a platter of indigenous ingredients.

Never mind the 50 Best ranking drop, Attica is still world class

In its latest incarnation, Attica puts indigenous Australia front and centre. And it's better than it's ever been, reviews Dani Valent.

  • Dani Valent
Emu egg sabayon sweetened with sugarbag honey over Daintree chocolate sorbet.
Good Food hatGood Food hatGood Food hat18.5/20

Attica's golden age

Ben Shewry is more in his element at the refreshed Attica than ever before.

  • Gemima Cody
Attica
Good Food hatGood Food hatGood Food hat18/20

Attica

Go to Attica and you’ll be cosseted by devoted staff, dine deliciously well, and drink great wine.

Attica, Ripponlea, Melbourne.
Good Food hatGood Food hatGood Food hat18/20

Attica

Go to Attica and you'll be cosseted by devoted staff, dine deliciously well, and drink great wine in a handsome pair of rooms. But open your eyes, ears and mind, and you’ll be taken on a more interesting journey.